Red Bag Tutorial

Red Bag - My First Online Tutorial

If you would like to go straight to the tutorial, skip this first page. If you are happy to read the history and reasons for the bag and tutorial, read on.

I wanted to make a special bag for my sister-in-law’s birthday. I asked my brother for her favourite colour and he said it was red. The only red I had, among my squillions of bits of fabric, was a beautiful remnant I had bought on EBay to make something for winter (I wasn’t sure what). It took a bit of pushing to make me cut it, but it looked so like her tastes, I just had to.

I had recently discovered and bought some lace zips and I had a red one among the collection, so that was my starting point for sizing, as I wanted to do a different zip application from the insertion ones below.

My fabric collection is very eclectic and comes from all sorts of sources. I happened to have a good bit of taffeta lining and it looks rather glamorous, which is why I used it, but it is awful to sew!

I would like to acknowledge the following link: http://www.sewcanshe.com/blog/2016/3/22/convertible-cross-body-tote This is a tutorial for a shoulder bag. I have previously made two variations of this bag, one in the given dimensions and the other much larger, and with my own versions of straps and fasteners. The first one seemed very small, which is why I varied the size for the second.

By the way, this one is still for sale. ;)

I have used some of these instructions to help with my tutorial and some of the measurements as a rough guide. Basically, as long as the measurements are consistent enough with one another or with specific needs such as zip length, the same pattern can make all sorts of bags. I would not attempt this particular zip application (above) with a zip shorter than about 25cm, however, as the bag would be just too small to be useful.

The blogger, SewCanShe.com used the same fabric for the top of the bag and the strap, but in both of these bags above, I used the main fabric for the strap. In my new bag, I am using the top fabric for the strap.

I have not dictated seam allowances. I usually use about 1cm, but standard patterns use 1.5cm. Just be consistent.

This is not a real beginner's project, but I have tried to make the instructions as clear as possible in case there is a very adventurous beginner out there. I have also mentioned my own pitfalls in case others suffer a similar fate. It is amazing what you can manage to hide, especially if you are just making something to use for yourself. Please feel free to ask questions or make comments.

Shoulder Bag Tutorial

The desired finished width of the bag was determined by the length of the zip, 30cm from base to pull tag. The actual zip tape extension is an extra 2cm at either end. These sections are enclosed in the side seams.

When buying a zip, the measurement of the zip as written on the package, e.g. a 30cm zip, refers to the distance of the teeth section of the zip. The tape extension is fabric at either end of the teeth section. So my 30cm zip is actually 34cm* from tape end to end, which determined the width of the front piece of the bag.

I opted for D-rings, but a sewn-in strap could be worked into the same pattern. The link above suggests a magnetic fastener, but I opted for a button and loop closure on the top of the bag.

As per the link above, I have used different fabrics for each section, but this could be varied. In the tree print bag I made above, I used the same fabric for the top section and the bag lining. With this new bag, I have used a variety of fabrics. 

It can be tricky to work with putting different fabrics together, and if you are a novice, perhaps all cotton fabrics would be safest and easiest to use. I like to use what I already have in my collection, and I like a challenge! 

One of the challenges of using different types of fabrics. The iron was set too high for this piece of taffeta. There are always ways to hide things, though. It didn't get wasted. :)

I will refer to mine as fabric A, B, etc.

Interfacing can be a personal choice and can depend on the fabric. My main fabric A is a soft, lightweight fabric, so I opted to interface it for strength. The top of the bag needs to hold its shape so interfacing is recommended there. Also, I used a silky, mid-weight dress fabric remnant for the top of the bag, so it was needed. I have listed the interfacing I used in this project as the size of the fabric pieces it adheres to, but I actually cut them a bit smaller so I don’t accidentally iron the fusible stuff to the ironing board cover.

Fabrics I used:

Main fabric A: red, floral, lightweight, possibly wool blend (EBay)

Contrast fabric B: black, silky, mid-weight dress fabric remnant (Op shop in Wonthaggi)

Contrast fabric C: black cotton drill (Spotlight, remnant, didn’t have enough of dress fabric remnant B to do all top sections)

Lining fabric D: mauve-grey taffeta (Vinnies op shop)

Lining fabric E: dove grey taffeta (Deceased estate)

Lining fabric F: charcoal grey taffeta (Deceased estate or op shop)

So my fabrics and measurements are: length/height (parallel to the selvedge) by width:

Exterior:

Front and back:           2 rectangles 31 x 34cm* in main fabric A, plus 2 matching pieces (31 x 34cm) of iron-on interfacing

Top panels:                  2 rectangles 11.5 x 34cm in contrast fabric B, plus 2 matching pieces (11.5 x34cm) of iron-on interfacing

Tabs:                     2 rectangles 10 x 8cm** in main fabric A

Lining of front top panel: 1 rectangle 11.5 x 34cm in lining fabric D

Exterior pocket:             1 rectangle 51 x 34cm in lining fabric D

Button tab: 1 rectangle cut on bias, 16 x 4cm in fabric B

Interior/lining of bag:

Main panels:                   2 rectangles 31 x 34cm in lining fabric E

Top panels:                     2 rectangles 11.5 x 34cm in contrast fabric C

Pocket:                            1 rectangle 36 x 34.5cm in lining fabric F

Inside tab:                   1 rectangle 10 x 6cm** in main fabric A

Strap:

1 rectangle 10 x 102cm (or longer) in contrast fabric C (alternatively, could have used main fabric A)

Interfacing to match

I went with 102cm simply because it was all I had. This amount makes a strap length to enable the bag to sit on the hip when the strap is on the shoulder, and the tabs are attached to the top of the bag. For a cross-body style, make it 107cm+, longer for D-rings positioned halfway down the sides of the top piece of the bag.

Hardware/Notions:

2 D-rings for exterior tabs/ strap

1 rectangular D-ring for interior tab/ key holder

30cm lace zip

Red and black thread

Red button

* Determined by length of zip fabric end to end.

** Determined by size of D-rings. Mine are 3.5cm rings. (Actually, while I made the tabs for this size, the D-rings I ended up using were much smaller, about 2.5cm.)

Pictured are the main fabric A (red), contrast fabric C (black), lining D and zip.

When I discovered that the colour of the zip pull was brassy and the D-ring quite silver, I decided to hunt for a better match in D-ring.

Collecting my main fabric A, contrast C, lining D and zip.

Ruler, tape, interfacing, D-rings and pocket lining fabric F.

The D-ring looks more silver than in this picture. Doesn't quite go with the zip pull. See below for what I ended up using.

A. Interfacing

Preliminary work for the bag involved ironing on the fusible interfacing. I bought this from a throwaway table at Spotlight. I like the grid lines on this, although it makes it unusable with pale or see-through fabrics. If your interfacing is not fusible, you need to stitch it to the fabric with a small allowance around the edges. For fusible, use a dry iron on the setting suitable for the fabric.

When sewing, "right side" refers to the side of the fabric that will be seen, while "wrong side" refers to the back of the fabric. I ironed the interfacing to the wrong side of the main fabric A bag pieces and tabs, and also to the contrast fabric B top pieces and contrast fabric C strap section. I tend to cut my interfacing pieces slightly smaller than the fabric to prevent the edges sticking to the board cover.

Fusible interfacing can be a bother. It can stick to the iron, leaving a mess. Yes, it did, even though I hadn't put the fusible side up the wrong way, as I have done before. Better late than never, I employed a clean handkerchief as an ironing cloth, once I had cleaned off the gunk from the iron plate.

Little tabs with interfacing ironed on.

Use a cloth to avoid getting interfacing gunk on the iron.

Erky perky.

Press in edges of tab.

Fold and press.

B. Sewing Tabs

1. The little tabs are quite easy, so they were the first thing I sewed. 

After fusing interfacing, fold the long sides in about 1cm and press. Then fold the strip in half lengthwise and press again so that you have a long rectangle.

2. Top stitch all around the edges, making sure to catch in both sides.

3. Slip the stitched rectangle through the D-ring, fold over ring, stitch ends together.

Loaded the bobbin on my old Singer machine with red. Swapping the thread back and forth from red to black was a pain in the bum.

Slip tab through D-ring.

Fold in half over ring and stitch ends closed.

Pictured is the key tab for inside the bag.

C. Sewing Outside of Bag #1 The Zip

This was probably the most exciting and nail-biting section. I had to make this up completely, lying awake for hours trying to work out the logistics and the best way to show off the lace zip. Normally, only the teeth section of a zip would be exposed, if any part at all. This zip needed to be a feature. I had decided not to do an insertion zip pocket as in the tutorial above, because my zip was a bit long for that, and would have made the end result of the bag wider and less elegant.

I designed a method in my mind for how the pocket should work and held my breath a lot in the process.

1. Place one interfaced top piece (fabric B) and top piece lining (D) right sides together and sew a seam along one long side. Turn and press.

Remember to interface before doing seams.

Top piece B and matching lining D

Taffeta is horrible to cut so I matched the straight section of the black fabric, sewed straight and trimmed the excess.

Trim excess seam allowance.

Pressing open before turning through can help get a crisper edge.

Turn and press edge.

 2. I overlocked the edges of the pocket piece because taffeta frays dreadfully.
Place the top of one interfaced main piece, fabric A, on exterior pocket, lining fabric C, with right sides together, making sure you match the 34cm edge. Stitch seam. Press open. Turn and press to make crisp edge.

Sew seam.

Press seam open.

Turn and press crisp edge.

3. With zip closed, place zip over sewn edge of top section, lining up teeth of zip with edge of seam, pin in place.

4. Carefully match main bag section under other side of zip and pin. Check back to see that both crisp seam edges meet underneath.

Under view: this is a satisfying result so far!

5. Use zipper foot on machine, adjusting to left or right as needed and sew zip carefully through all thicknesses, 3mm from zip teeth, one side at a time. When sewing a zip, stop with needle in the fabric and move the pull tab past the section where you are sewing to ensure a straight finish.

Zipper foot on machine, normal sewing foot removed.

Start sewing with zip slightly open. Sew slowly and carefully.

Once the stitching has gone past the pull tab area, stop with needle in to move zip tab to closed, then continue stitching.

Stitching the second side.

With needle in, open zip a little when approaching pull tab end.

Ta-daa!!

Nice, neat underside.

Top of picture shows lined underside of top section, lower part shows pocket piece.

D. Sewing Outside of Bag #2 The Pocket

1. Fold bottom of pocket piece to top of lined top piece and pin in place. The pocket will be pinned at the top to the lined top section, and along the sides aligned to the bag pieces. Its fold will remain unpinned, about halfway up the main bag section, creating a secreted folded pocket under the main exterior.

I used a clip to hold the edges of the zip fabric ends together while sewing the pocket seam.

Take care not to connect with the metal parts of the zip when sewing this seam. Stock up on spare needles!

2. Pin and stitch all three edges of pocket. I used a clip to hold together the zip fabric edges and also to give me an indication of where to be especially careful.

On the outside, open the zip and you can see into the pocket.

Note that this style of pocket extends a way above the zip, which means the pocket can accommodate a book or small tablet tucked up and under the zip. I was rather proud of how this one worked out.

E. Sewing Outside of Bag #3: The Non-Zip Side

1. Place top section, fabric B, and main section, fabric A, right sides together at 34cm side. Pin, stitch and press seam towards top.

2. At this point, if you wanted topstitching, you would stitch on the outside, through all thicknesses of the seam allowance. I didn't topstitch because I wanted a sleeker look with the silky black fabric.

F. Sewing Outside of Bag #4: The Tabs

1. Place the D-ring tabs on the side seams on the outside of the bag (right side of fabric) with raw edges matching the raw edge of the side of the bag top and rings facing downwards. Pin and stitch close to raw edges, through all thicknesses.

(Alternatively, you could sew the tabs as per the tutorial above, where the rings come out from the side of the top section of the bag.)

Confession: I got so excited once my new D-rings arrived, I forgot to photograph this step. The picture of the inside key tab in Step H below illustrates the point.

2. To make a button tab, cut a bias strip as described in the fabric list above. Fold in half lengthwise, right sides together. Pin and sew a narrow seam along the raw edges.

Using a safety pin, turn the strip through to the right side. Press.

Cut bias carefully. Use a 45 degree guide, if necessary.

Stitch a narrow seam.

Attach a safety pin to one end and carefully push it through the tube.

Pull out the other end until the tube is completely inverted.

 Button decisions..... I got my Facebook helpers to advise. The larger button (right) was the unanimous choice.










Once the button is decided upon, the button tab can be sewn in place.
3. Fold button tab in half, with raw edges together. Measure and mark the centre point of the top of the bag, on the back side of the bag (non-zip side).  The loop goes on the back of the bag and the button on the front.
4. Pin tab in place, pointing loop downwards, positioning so that loop length is adjusted to allow a generous slot for the chosen button and where the button will go. Button should pass through loop with a little room to spare. The positioning will most likely have the raw ends of the loop overhanging the raw edge of the top of the bag. Mine had only a little overhang as I chose to put the button centrally between the top edge and the zip.

G. Sewing the Inside of the Bag #1: Slip Pockets

These are quite easy and so effective in any sort of lined bag.
1. Fold pocket piece, lining fabric F in half, with 34cm sides together, right sides together. Sew along raw edges. Turn right side out and press.

Add caption

34 cm sides sewn

Turn through and press.

2. Place this piece onto one of the inside pieces with the folded side uppermost and seam sitting at the base across the width of the bag lining, pin to the sides and pin the base. Stitch sides and base. Stitch a straight line from top to bottom of pocket to divide it into sections.

Pin and stitch sides, base and dividing line on slip pocket.

H. Sewing the Inside of the Bag #2: Key Tab

1. If you made all the tabs in the earlier instruction, this is just a matter of sewing the smallest of the 3 tabs onto one side of the inside of the bag, where it can be used with a clip-style keyring to hold keys.

2. Pin in place along seam line, with ring towards centre of bag piece, Stitch in place.

I. Making up the Bag #1: Side and Base Seams

The instructions for this part are the same for both the outside bag and the bag lining (inside bag).

1. Skip this step if you do not want boxed corners. On the bottom corner of each main bag piece, cut out a square 4 x 4cm or smaller, if preferred. This will determine the size of the boxed corners.

2. Before sewing side seams, make sure the tabs and their rings are facing inward. Pin them to the bag to prevent them moving while doing the seams, if necessary. 

3. With right sides together and careful to match the seams where the top and main sections meet, pin front of bag to back of bag along sides and base. Sew straight seams. When doing this step on the bag lining, leave 12-15cm open at the base for pulling the whole bag through in a later step. (Note: I did not leave a big enough opening and ended up with it tearing.)

Remove any extra pins (e.g. on tabs). Press seams open.

Right side of lining sewn, with small opening still at base. Note sides of slip pocket and key tab are neatly enclosed in side seam.

Confession Time: Sizing and Matching Problems

Here is a side note, but it is the kind of thing that often happens to me. My problem in this instance may have been because I used a variety of fabric types. 

What happened to me was that, even though I measured and cut my pieces carefully (except maybe the taffeta...), somehow the bag lining was measuring wider than the bag exterior, when sewing up the side seams. This affects putting the two together. A lining bigger than an exterior will bunch up inside; a lining too much smaller will tug and warp the shape of the exterior.

Fabrics have their own characters, almost like personalities.Simple, woven cottons are the easiest fabrics to sew, but I have used all sorts here, including many synthetics, which have a mind of their own. I suspect that, when I lined the top piece, fabric B, which is a synthetic dress fabric, the taffeta lining D has pulled fabric B just slightly inwards like shrinking, not enough to pucker, but enough to cause it not to measure quite as wide as when it was first cut. As I said before, taffeta is horrible to work with. It is slippery and stubborn. It looks lovely, but you pay for that and not only in dollars!

So my problem was that the two bags, exterior and lining, had become different sizes. I was limited by the zip's size and position in taking in any seam, and I was naughty and had already made up the boxed corners on the lining, so my alterations had to be crafty. (Puns.)

There is a fair difference between the widths between the seams on the two bag parts,

The seam allowance on the fabric contrast B is very small and prone to fraying.

My workaround was to establish just how small a seam allowance I could safely manage on the side seams of the exterior, keeping in mind that fabric B is a fraying type monster and needs taming, and the position of the zip, and then sew those side seams. I opted to sew the top section with just slightly more seam allowance, because I had so little of the fabric B enclosed, since it had shrunk inwards, and to taper very slightly to accommodate the zip and then make the rest of the side seam straight. I figured this would make the top of the bag more snug but still allow the main bag to be close to the intended width.

Then I measured the distance between those seams across the top of the bag: exactly 30cm. Turning my attention to the bag lining, I applied the same measurement to the top of the bag lining, which was currently 32cm seam to seam. I tapered from the new starting point at the top to the first join, and eased towards the existing seam until they met about halfway down the main part of the bag.

As the two parts of the bag are joined at the top only, it was more important to make sure that they matched exactly at that point. Small differences elsewhere can be hidden.

Motto: try to get it right the first time and you won't have to alter, but don't give up just because something is a bit askew.

J. Making up the Bag #2: Boxed Corners

Boxed corners give a neat shape to the base of a bag. 

Instructions for both outer bag and lining of bag.

1. To box the corners, flatten each corner and centre the side and bottom seams.

2. Pin and stitch the corner seam.

K. Making up the Bag #3: Joining Outer to Lining

It always feels like you're going to be able to use that bag today or tomorrow when you get to this point.

1. Lining bag should be turned inside out, as it was when sewing the side seams.

2. Outer bag should be turned through to the right side.

3. Place lining over outer bag (put outer bag inside lining bag) so that right sides are together. Line up side seams at top. Make sure tabs are pointing down the inside.

4. Pin all around top edge. Sew seam, including the raw edges of the tabs. See hint below.

5. Turn the bag right side out through the opening in the base of the lining. Pin and stitch the opening in the lining closed by hand or machine.

6. Press the outside along the seam very carefully, rolling it out between your fingers, if necessary. Tabs should be perkily sticking up, waiting for the strap.

7. If you want topstitching, do that now around the top of the bag.

Tuck outside of bag inside the lining bag.

Make sure tabs are pointing downwards. They should not be visible (except for their raw edges) once you have pinned the seam.

Match side seams when pinning.

Pin all around seam.

Hint for sewing seams where thicknesses can vary, such as sewing over tabs, thick seams, etc.:
To get an even stitch and prevent straining the needle or machine, use a small pad under the back of the foot when sewing over a thicker section, especially at the start of the section. This lifts the back of the foot so that it remains horizontal when sewing, rather than tipping up towards the thicker section. Once you have used the pad to boost the foot up there, it will usually continue OK, but you may need to pop the pad in again from time to time. It is behind the needle, so there is no fear of it getting stitched to the item being sewn.

Stitch all the way around.

If at all possible, press the new seam open.

Turn the bag right side out. Press.

When I turned my bag through the opening in the lining, the stitching in the lining pulled and tore a little, so I pressed up a larger allowance on the base of the lining and stitched it with two lines of stitching. If using cotton, this is unlikely to be a problem, Me and my taffeta.

Push the lining back inside the bag and press the top seam. See the inside, looking all nice?

L. Making up the Bag #4: Strap 

I opted for a simple strap. There are a number of alternatives, including in the link above to SewCan She.com. 

1. Interface the strap fabric C (or A, if you have used that). Depending on the thickness of the interfacing and/or the stiffness of the strap fabric, you may wish to interface only half the width of the strap.

2. Press in about 1cm on either side of the strap's length, then press in half, with the folded sides enclosed.

3. Pin and stitch the strap. Stitch on folded side if you want a symmetrical look.

4. Loop the end of the strap from outside to inside the D-ring. Fold under the end about 1cm, pin and stitch it to the strap on the other side of the ring, about 4.5cm from the ring. Stitch an extra line of stitching for added strength in the seam. I sewed one line, turned, sewed 3 stitches, turned, sewed the second line, turned and sewed 3 stitches to form a small rectangle.

5. Repeat on the other D-ring, taking care not to twist the strap - check it before sewing! (Yes, I have done that before....)

Interface strap either fully (pictured) or on half the width.

Take care when threading the strap through the ring. Check which way it will face, so the folded bit will be on the underside when in use.

Once the strap is threaded through the ring and facing the right way, stitch the strap to its folded underside.

M. Making up the Bag #4: The Button - the last step!!!

1. Measure and mark where the button should go.
2. Handsew it in place.

Congratulations! You have made a great-looking, versatile and useful bag for yourself or for a gift. Please post photos of your creations on this blog or on https://www.facebook.com/Kwee-977106825639876/?fref=nf 

Trying to find the red tabs which had mysteriously disappeared was tough. It was like a game of Where's Wally. See the little red things on the floor?

Items keep going missing during the project. I'm not kidding anyone that I know good ways to stop this happening! I popped the button and back-up tabs (in case the intended ones didn't arrive) into the pin container, but you know, I could lose that, too.

When the D-rings arrived, they were quite small, but the colour was a better match and I was finally able to finish the bag.